We had an awesome experience on this Alaska cruise. Our stateroom was comfortable, extremely well equipped and serviced twice daily by the amazing Kristie. The service throughout was outstanding. We ate almost exclusively at the gourmet restaurant. The food ranged from good (standard French bistro) to outstanding (approaching Michelin 1 star), with special highlights the lamb and veal served at the special dinners and desserts. The ribeye steak available every day was also terrific. The agenda ensured that we saw lots of Alaskan wildlife: orcas, humpback whales, dolphins, bears, sea lions (they do roar), harbour seals, sea otters, bald eagles, mountain goats and salmon to name a few. Australians love their coffee: cappuccino in the Eclipse restaurant was better than the lounge and there was a nespresso machine in our stateroom. Our expectations were exceeded. The only complaint we have is that this cruise is not on next year's schedule so we can't send our foodie friends.

This is a journal of our May 21-28, 2024, “Cultural and Natural Treasures of Japan by Sea-with Smithsonian Journeys” seven-night cruise cruise aboard the Ponant Le Soléal. The review of our May 13-21, 2024, “The Best of Japan” eight-night cruise is posted at https://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=717037. CRUISE ITINERARY: Maizuru, Japan; Sakaiminato, Japan; Busan, South Korea; Kanazawa, Japan; Ogi, Japan; Sakata, Japan; Hakodate, Japan ABOUT US John and I (Carolyn) are retired Mississippi State University professors in our early seventies, who currently reside in central North Carolina. Both of us are natives of New Orleans and, as such, are interested in good food and wine. For souvenirs of our trips, we like to collect small regional or national flags. Because of our previous cruise in this region, we already had flags for Japan and South Korea. We enjoy both cruises and land tours; often our trips combine the two. We have set foot on all seven continents, primarily in the Americas and Europe. We have previously sailed with Princess, Royal Caribbean, Holland America, Celebrity, Costa, and Commodore. This was our seventh cruise with Ponant. On our trips, we prefer nature and wildlife tours that involve snorkeling, SCUBA diving, or hiking. In particular, we will hike for miles to see waterfalls, volcanoes, caves, or other interesting geologic features. We also enjoy lighthouses, forts, castles, and anything else we can legally climb up on for a good view. Fortunately, neither of us has mobility issues. We also exercise regularly, walking six miles a day for five days a week. In general, we prefer DIY port tours, independent tours with other Cruise Critic roll call members, or shared public tours. Because this was a Smithsonian Journeys cruise, there was an included excursion at each port (except Maizuru and Hakodate). ABOUT THE REVIEW Our reviews are primarily a journal of what we did in the various ports, including web links to tourist information sites and maps. For those who wish more information on the ship and the onboard experience, please see the report on our first cruise with Ponant aboard Le Soléal in 2020 (www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=680008). SUGGESTED RESOURCES “History of Japan: Revised Edition Revised Edition, Kindle Edition” (2011) by Richard Mason and J. G. Caiger  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LPUEPK/) "Tokyo Before Tokyo: Power and Magic in the Shogun's City of Edo” (2020)  by Timon Screech (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L6MQH41/) Google Translate App (https://support.google.com/translate/answer/6350850) TUESDAY, MAY 21, 2024—MAIZURU, JAPAN (Arrive 8 a.m.; Depart 6 p.m.) Today was our turnaround day in Maizuru, the port for Kyoto, on Honshu Island. It was literally a turnaround day because this evening the ship would set sail for Sakaiminato, where we were in port yesterday. Since we had the day at leisure, we started with Eggs Benedict as our first breakfast in the dining room. Then we went to the Observatory Lounge to read and give our excellent cabin steward, Fuad, a chance to make up our cabin. The cabins that were receiving new guests were being thoroughly cleaned and disinfected; they even changed the air filters. There were only 167 guests on this cruise and everyone spoke English, so all the announcements would be made in English only. Although John had thoroughly researched Maizuru (https://maizuru--kanko-net.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US), he had not been able to put together much of a sightseeing plan. He had identified the Goro Sky Tower, the Enryu-ji Temple, and the remains of the Tanabe-jō Castle as the major points of interest. We quickly eliminated the Goro Sky Tower because of the hassle to get there; there was no safe walking route. We almost decided to remain on the ship, but we were glad that we hadn't after we went to the tourist information table in the cruise terminal. We obtained an excellent map of the city in English with two suggested walking tours (https://maizuru-kanko.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/westmap.pdf). John already knew that we would pass several temples and shrines on the way to the Enryu-ji Temple. However, the tourist map showed that there was an entire temple district, with accompanying cemeteries. Including Enryu-ji, there were eight Buddhist temples and two Shinto shrines in this area. We visited all of them. Next we went to the Maizuru Park (https://www.japan-experience.com/all-about-japan/kyoto/attractions-excursions/tanabe-castle) to view the ruins of Tanabe Castle (Tanabe-jō). This 16th-century castle was demolished in 1871 and all that remains today is the stone foundation of the two-story tower and some fragments of stone walls. In 1940, a faux tower was reconstructed for use as a museum, and in 1992 a replica of the Main Gate was restored. The park has several attractive garden areas to stroll. On the way back to the ship, we visited another temple and another shrine. Altogether, we spent nearly two hours exploring Maizuru. Later in the afternoon, we attended the Welcome Speech by Captain Ducournau. That was followed by the Life Onboard talk by the Cruise Director, Tino; the Smithsonian staff and special lecturers were also introduced. Finally came the mandatory Lifeboat Drill. A band had come to the pier to entertain us, but everyone was at the program and Lifeboat Drill while they were playing. That was followed by dinner. Executive Chef Belliot included Japanese as well as French dishes on the menu. Soon the ship was on its way north through the Sea of Japan. The ship would mostly call at ports along the west coast of Japan, with a detour to South Korea. WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2024—SAKAIMINATO, JAPAN (Adachi Museum of Art, Yuushien Garden) Today we returned to the busy fishing port of Sakaiminato (https://www.whatsinport.com/Sakaiminato.htm), but we docked at a different terminal than on the last cruise. Sadly, our days of semiprivate tours on the first cruise were over; today our group numbered 26. Our guide was Mie, who was our guide in Hiroshima on the previous cruise. Our local guide from two days ago, Tanny, was leading a different bus group on the same tour. We first drove for about an hour to the Adachi Museum of Art (https://www.adachi-museum.or.jp/en/). Its founder, Adachi Zenko, was passionate about Japanese painting and landscape design; his museum showcases both. An unusual aspect of this museum is its garden, which is actually five separate gardens. The gardens are intended be seen as "living paintings" and can only be viewed from inside the museum through glass walls. The museum building is cleverly designed to reveal one scene after another. The views are also intended to be perfect, so before the museum opens each day, the staff picks up any leaves that might have fallen overnight. This truly spectacular garden is consistently ranked as the best garden in Japan by the Journal of Japanese Gardening. After enjoying the gardens, we toured the museum's art collection, which includes over 1,300 artworks by the great masters of modern Japanese art. Adachi particularly admired the works of Yokoyama Taikan, which are displayed in a permanent exhibit. Next we headed to Yuushien Garden (https://www.yuushien.com/language/en.html), which is located on Daikon Island in the middle of Lake Nakaumi. You do not have to take a boat to the island; there are causeways on opposite sides of the island connecting it to the lakeshore. This garden features an array of landscape elements such as flower gardens, waterfalls, streams, bridges, and rock gardens. One of Yuushien's main attractions is the Japanese Peony House, where many different species of peonies in an array of colors are kept in full bloom all year around. There was also a special exhibition of roses being held while we were there. All were labeled according to their fragrance intensity! After visiting these two outstanding gardens, we headed back to the ship across the Eshima Ohashi Bridge, popularly known as the Roller Coaster Bridge. The bridge has a reputation for being dangerous because of photos circulating on the internet that make it look incredibly steep and wavy. However, that is just an optical illusion produced by photographing the bridge at a particular spot from a distance with a telephoto lens. (https://japannews.yomiuri.co.jp/features/japan-focus/20210508-62433/.) When we returned from the excursion, we had to go through Japanese emigration because we would be leaving for South Korea at 2 p.m. Just before the ship left, there was a performance by dancers dressed in beautiful matching kimonos. They did several dances using props such as wooden sticks and spoons. Sakaiminato is known for its seafood and the port staff and people on the terminal balcony were wearing red crab claw mitts. As the ship pulled away from the dock, everyone (even the dancers) was waving goodbye with the mitts and several people were waving colorful flags. It was quite a send off! After lunch we had two talks by our first Smithsonian special guest lecturer, John Freedman. The first was "The Epic History of Japan: Origins and Odyssey," followed a half hour later by "A Tale of Two Koreas." Dr. Freedman is a former physician who is a Japanophile and expert in Asian studies. The fact that he has lectured for over 100 Smithsonian Journeys and other educational travel programs is evident from his polished and fast-paced talks. He covered a tremendous amount of material in a highly interesting manner. Later in the evening, there was the Welcome Cocktail party with Captain Ducournau, followed by the Gala Dinner. It is a bit disappointing that the menus are the same on this voyage as on the previous one, but we will get to try some of the other options. THURSDAY, MAY 23, 2024—BUSAN, SOUTH KOREA (Gyeongju Daereungwon Ancient Tomb Complex, Gyeongju National Museum Back in Busan (https://www.visitbusan.net/en/index.do), we were again at a different pier, but near where we were before. The Costa Serena was also in port. Before we could leave on our all-day tour, we had to go through South Korean customs and immigration. The temporary tourist visa we received a few days ago expired yesterday, so we had to get a new one; fortunately the visas are free. Grace was our guide today on our excursion to Gyeongju, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla (pronounced Sheila). As we learned in the lecture yesterday, Silla, Baekje, and Goguryeo together occupied the entire Korean peninsula and roughly half of Manchuria during the Three Kingdoms period (562-660). This period ended when Silla conquered the other two kingdoms. During the 300 years that Silla dominated the peninsula, Buddhism was introduced to Korea, along with printing, a refinement in porcelain production, and a written language that is still in use today. It took 90 minutes to drive to the Gyeongiu Historic Areas, a UNESCO World Heritage site encompassing the ruins of temples and palaces, outdoor pagodas and statuary, and other cultural artifacts left by the Silla Kingdom. Our first stop was at the Gyeongju Daereungwon Ancient Tomb Complex (https://english.visitkorea.or.kr/svc/whereToGo/locIntrdn/rgnContentsView.do?vcontsId=33871), a royal burial ground containing the tumuli (burial mounds shaped like domes or mounds of earth) of five Silla kings, queens, and members of the upper classes. Excavated tombs reveal wooden coffins covered with gravel and rich grave goods of gold, glass, and quality ceramics. Unfortunately, we did not have a lot of time to explore this site. We were able to visit inside the Cheonmachong (Flying/Heavenly Horse Tomb) to see how these huge mounds were constructed. There is a replica of the coffin and burial goods; the originals are in the museum we would visit later. The tomb's name comes from a painting of a winged horse on a birch bark saddle flap that was found in the tomb. There are many other tombs like this scattered throughout the Gyeongiu Historic Areas. Next we visited the Gyeongju National Museum (https://gyeongju.museum.go.kr/eng/). The museum is next to the site of the Moon Palace, the royal palace compound of the Silla monarchy. The palace takes its name from the approximate outline of the palace walls, which were shaped like a crescent moon. The museum is a treasure trove of original Silla relics, ranging from prehistoric stone implements to magnificent golden crowns. One of the museum's prized possessions is the massive bronze Bell of King Seongdeok. Cast in the 8th century, it weighs 25 tons and stands 12 feet tall; a recording of the bell plays every 20 minutes. Grace conducted us through the Silla History Exhibition Hall and the Silla Art Exhibition Hall, pointing out important objects. After that, we had some free time to explore the grounds, which include several pagodas and a pretty pond. We then had a typical Korean lunch at a local restaurant, Jeongsugaseong (https://en.tripadvisor.com.hk/Restaurant_Review-g297888-d8762562-Reviews-Jeongsugaseong-Gyeongju_Gyeongsangbuk_do.html). We had Korean hot pot, a boiling pot of broth containing mushrooms, vegetables, and beef. We also had numerous side dishes, including fermented crab, kimchi, seaweed, octopus, and noodles. Plus rice, of course. Our meal also included a beer or soft drink. This was all very good, but the crab must be an acquired taste. After lunch, we headed to the Bulguksa Temple (http://eng.bulguksa.or.kr/), located on the slopes of Mt. Tohamsan. Grace walked us through the temple complex. After climbing the Jahamon Gate, we were in front of the Daeungjeon Hall, the main hall where the principal icon of the Sakyamuni Buddha is enshrined. In front of this hall are two stone pagodas, the Dabotap and Seokgatap pagodas. We also viewed the Birojeon Hall, with its Golden Seated Vairocana Buddha, and the Geugnakjeon Hall, which enshrines the Amitabha Buddha. After that, we had some free time, so John and I sought out the Gwaneumjoen Hall, dedicated to Avelokitesvara (Kannon), the Bodhisattva of Compassion. As at the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple four days ago, the temple area was decorated with colorful paper lanterns to celebrate the Gautama Buddha's Birthday, which was observed this year in South Korea on May 15. Here though, the lanterns were shaped like lotus blossoms, not globes. Back on the ship, we had a lecture by our second Special Guest, Timon Screech, giving "An Overview of Japanese History." Dr. Screech is a professor of art history at the School of Oriental and African Studies at the University of London. This is his first experience lecturing to an educational travel group, so he is not as polished as Dr. Freedman. Nevertheless, his talk was quite interesting and complemented Dr. Freeman's talk. On Tuesday, the Restaurant Manager, Giraud, was talking with passengers. When he came by our table John noted that last week's cruise was the first Ponant cruise where neither foie gras nor escargot were on the menu. He went to check with the Executive Chef and came back with the news that foie gras would be served at some unspecified date, but we could get escargot with two day's notice. We had asked to have it tonight. Giraud was as good as his word: our usual server, Avinash, had been informed and we each received a bowl of eight snails. Escargot on Ponant are usually served in pastry cups, but these were cooked in the shell. There were no snail tongs or forks, but we managed to extract the tasty morsels with bamboo cocktail picks. Yum! FRIDAY, MAY 24, 2024—AT SEA (Scenic Cruising Through the Oki Islands Archipelago) This was the one and only day at sea for either cruise. We could sleep as late as we wanted, so naturally we woke up at 6:30 a.m. Smithsonian Journeys had a movie at 10 a.m. advertising their trips, but we skipped that in favor of relaxing in the Observatory Lounge. The first activity for us was a lecture by Dr. Screech on "The Gods and Buddhas of Japan." After lunch, Dr. Freedman spoke on "The Epic History of Japan, Part 2: Rapacity and Retribution." Both of those excellent lectures filled in gaps in our understanding of the Japanese culture and their way of thinking. Later in the afternoon, we had scenic cruising through the Oki Islands archipelago (https://www.kankou-shimane.com/en/highlights/11073), which is a UNESCO Global Geopark. These islands are volcanic in origin, and are the exposed eroded summits of two massive stratovolcanoes dating from approximately 5 million years ago. During our transit of the calderas, we saw a number of interesting geologic features. Those included the Tsūtenkyō Arch sea arch and the Sekiheki (Red Cliff), where iron-rich lava oxidized when it contacted the air causing it to change color to a vibrant red. Before dinner we enjoyed a Pata Negra Tasting of this special Iberian ham. Later in the evening, we had a concert by our third Smithsonian Special Guest, Reison Kuroda. He is an internationally renowned master of the shakuhatchi (Japanese bamboo flute). In addition to traditional Japanese tunes, he played modern pieces and even George Gershwin's "Summertime" from the opera Porgy and Bess. SATURDAY, MAY 25, 2024—KANAZAWA, JAPAN (Gyokusenan Teahouse , Kenrokuen Garden, Kutani Kosen Pottery Studio, Nomura Samurai Residence, Kaikaro Geisha Teahouse) Today the ship called at Kanazawa (https://visitkanazawa.jp/en/). We were met at the port by six tourist ambassadors, dressed in gorgeous kimonos. The area around Kanazawa was part of the ancient Kaga Domain, which was ruled by the Maeda family of the Kaga Clan for three centuries (1583-1869) during the Edo Period. The Maeda summoned samurai retainers to live in Kanazawa and offered incentives to attract the artisans and merchants needed to support the samurai population. The vast wealth of the Maeda was channeled into arts and crafts, rather than military pursuits, and Kanazawa became known as "The City of Handicrafts." The city is also known for its well-preserved Edo Period neighborhoods, such as the Nagamachi Samurai District and the Chaya Districts. The ship provided a free shuttle bus to the city center that stopped at Kanazawa Station, in front of the Hyatt Centric Hotel, for those who wished to tour Kanazawa independently. Our tour guide for “The Samurai Heritage of Kanazawa” was Masa. Our first stop was at Kanazawa Castle Park (https://www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kanazawajou/e/). Part of the park is the Gyokusen-en Garden (https://gyokusen-en.net/en/), which was landscaped by the Wakita family, senior retainers of the Maeda, over a period of about 100 years. The garden is home to the oldest tea house in Kanazawa, Saisetsu-tei. Here we were guests at a performance of an authentic tea ceremony, one of the most important cultural legacies of the shogunate. The tour group was divided in half and our half was first to observe the tea ceremony. This tea ceremony was more elaborate than the one we observed at Nanraku-en Garden in Uwajima on the previous cruise. After our group finished, we had free time to enjoy lovely views of the garden; explore some of the grounds of Kanazawa Castle, the residence of the Maeda clan, north of the garden around Ninomaru Park; walk through the Nezumitamon Gate; and view the Imoribori Moat. An older castle on the site was completely reconstructed in 1592. The new castle had a large keep, multiple turrets, and a palace, but most of those structures were destroyed by fires over the years. Some were rebuilt, but the keep was never rebuilt after it burned down in 1602. The oldest surviving structure (1788) is the rear gate (Ishikawa-mon), which faces Kenroku-en garden. Most of the current buildings (turrets, storehouses, watchtowers) are reconstructions based how the castle looked in the 1850s. Some walls and structures were closed off because of a recent earthquake—just a reminder that Japan is quite seismically active. After the tour group reunited, we were all bused the short distance to Kenrokuen Garden (https://www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kenrokuen/e/index.html), which is recognized as one of "Three Great Gardens of Japan." Originally the Maeda family's private garden next to the castle, it was developed over the centuries into a showcase of hills, streams, ponds, and fountains, containing all six of the elements considered central qualities of a perfect garden: extensiveness, artfulness, antiquity, abundant water, wide prospect, and quiet seclusion. First Masa gave us a guided tour of the garden, followed by some free time to explore on our own. Masa encouraged us to save some time (and we did) to visit the Ishikawa-mon, which is right across the street from the entrance to the garden. The next stop was at the Kutani Kosen Pottery Studio (https://kutanikosen.com/en/), established in 1870, to see how handmade Kutani ware is produced. The tour started with the history of Kutani ware and of the Kosen Kiln and a display of the studio’s art. Then came a room with unglazed pottery pieces and information about the types of glazing. Next was a demonstration of the potter's wheel to show how pieces are formed by hand. That was followed by a visit to the main kiln and an explanation of the firing process. Finally, of course, came the gift shop. This studio is well-respected and has been visited by members of the Imperial Family, who tried their hands at making pottery. This tour was much more interesting than the one to the pottery house in Kagoshima on the previous cruise. Next we enjoyed a traditional Japanese lunch in the restaurant of the Kanazawa Chaya Ryokan (https://www.chayaryokan.co.jp/en/); a ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. Here we had a fantastic three-level bento box filled with local delicacies plus bowls of other foods. We had to remove our shoes, but we only needed to wear slippers to use the toilets; there are slippers on loan. After we reboarded the bus, what seemed to be the entire management and staff of the restaurant lined up along the street to wave goodbye. The ryokan is only a few blocks from the modern JR Kanazawa Station. Over the main entrance is a gigantic glass dome, which is supported by two massive pillars called the Tsuzumi-mon (Drum Gate). The pillars are modeled after the Japanese drums used in Kaga-Hoshou, the traditional Noh performance in this region. After lunch, we were bused a short way to the Nagamichi Samurai District, where the middle to high-ranking samurais lived. It escaped any large-scale fires and thus retains many features from the Edo Period: narrow cobblestone streets, a drainage and water supply system, and restored samurai houses behind their original earthen walls. We visited one of the larger of these houses, the Nomura Samurai Residence (http://www.nomurake.com/), home to generations of the Nomura family, who held important posts under the rule of the Maeda. Its garden has won numerous awards, and the heirlooms on display include a full set of samurai armor. The rooms are very similar to the Nagasaki Magistrate's Office that we saw at the Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture on the previous cruise. Visitors must remove their shoes and put them in a cubby; there are slippers on loan. Next we made our way to the Higashi Chayagai District, the largest and one of only three remaining chaya (tea house) districts in Kanazawa. A chaya is an exclusive type of restaurant where guests are entertained by geisha who perform song and dance. The Kaikaro Chaya (https://www.kaikaro.jp/eng/index.html) is still an operating tea house that follows the traditional, referral-based admittance policy in the evenings, but offers tours of the building in the daytime. Again we had to remove our shoes and put them in a cubby; those who were not wearing socks had to buy slippers. The tour took us up the vermilion-lacquered stairs to the second floor. That is where the red-walled banquet rooms, with tatami mats covering the floors, are located. We saw a small room for playing a ball game, one with drums, and another where the geisha got ready to perform. There is also an impressive golden tearoom and a number of beautiful painted sliding screens. As we left, we saw the back stairs where patrons could leave discreetly. As the ship prepared to leave the dock, we were entertained by not one, but three different troupes wearing traditional dress and performing traditional dances. Dinner tonight featured a Bordier (https://www.maisonbordier.com/en/) cheese buffet for dessert. There were at least 15 types of outstanding cheese—a cheese lover's delight. SUNDAY, MAY 26, 2024—OGI, JAPAN (Senkaku-wan Bay, Ageshima Yuen Park, Sado Kinzan Gold Mine) The small town of Ogi on Sado Island's (https://www.visitsado.com/en/) south coast is best-known for its taraibune, small round boats (they look like large wooden washtubs) that were originally used for harvesting seaweed and shells. You can take a trip in one at Ogi Port. However, today’s excursion, “The Scenic North and Sado’s Gold Mine,” focused on the northern part of the island, a region known for its natural beauty—and also for the gold mines that made the island wealthy. Our guide’s name was Kohshi. Waiting for us as we docked was a dance troupe performing traditional folk dances. They were all wearing a Japanese traditional hat made of igusa (soft rush), which is also used to make tatami mats. The rush radiates from the center of the hat to form a flat plate that is folded in half. When the hat is tied beneath the chin, the dancer’s face can barely be seen. There was plenty of tourist information on offer and free shots of saké. Our bus drove north, mostly along the west coast of Sado Island, for about an hour to Senkaku-wan Bay. The three-kilometer (almost two miles) long rugged coastline of this bay (actually a series of five small bays) consists of steep cliffs and numerous rock pinnacles in the sea; the surrounding area is a marine park with sparkling blue water. There were many day lilies and other flowers blooming in the rock faces of the cliffs. We stopped at Ageshima Yuen Park (https://www.visitsado.com/en/spot/detail0035/), which has a view over the entire bay. There are nice viewpoints as you walk out on a peninsula that leads to the Yusen Bridge; the bridge connects the peninsula to tiny Age Island. Along the way we passed a miniature three-person taraibune in a small pool. I had to ride in it and learned it is not that easy to use the one oar to steer. Fortunately, it is tied to the side of the pool with a rope, so I could pull myself back to where I started. We also passed a lighthouse. There are great views from the bridge and from an observation deck and paths on top of Age Island. There is another viewpoint under the bridge on the peninsula side. From the latter, you can walk through a tunnel in the cliff to the landing platform for the glass-bottomed boats that take visitors on tours along the coastline and among the pinnacles. Unfortunately, we did not have time for a boat ride today. We could see schools of fish through the clear water. From the park, we drove back south, then traveled inland to the Sado Kinzan Gold Mine (https://www.sado-kinzan.com/en/). This is the largest of the mines dug after the discovery of large deposits of gold and silver in this area in the early 17th century. Sado was one of the largest producers of gold in the world and an important source of revenue for the Tokugawa Shogunate. The mine operated for nearly 400 years and only closed in 1989. Along the way, we passed the ruins of the Kitazawa flotation plant. A flotation plant is where the valuable minerals extracted from the mine are separated from waste materials. We continued up Mt. Toramaru, temporarily bypassing the mine tour site, to the open-pit mining sites of the Doyu and the Aoban Veins; these were the largest open-cut mining sites in Japan and were excavated using hand tools. The large-scale surface mining of the Doyu Vein has left a split in the mountain that is the emblem of the Sado Island Gold Mines. Nearby is the Ogiriyama mine site, which dates to 1647. It is distinctive because it employed two parallel tunnels—one for working and one for ventilation. Our tour of the “Historic Site, Sado Gold Mine” explored the Sodayu-mabu Tunnel Site that dates from the early Edo Period. After descending into the tunnels, there are displays with moving mannequins recreating every stage of the mining process and describing the living and working conditions of the miners. Unfortunately many of those workers were Korean slaves forced to work in the mines. Japan wants the mine to be certified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but that will not happen as long as the mine glosses over its use of this forced labor in its exhibits and promotional material. After exiting the tunnels, there is a museum with diagrams and models of the mine and models illustrating every stage in the process of mining and smelting gold ore and making koban and ichibukin gold coins. Both of these coins were made of a gold-silver alloy, but they differ in the ratio of gold to silver. In another room are rare gold coins from the Edo Period. There is also a Plexiglas case with a gold bar inside that you can try to extract through a slit in the side. The bar is so heavy that I could barely shift its position in the box, but John was able to raise it slightly above the floor of the box. On the way back to Ogi, we stopped along the Nanaura Coast near Takose to view the Meoto Iwa (Married Couple Rocks) there. Pairs of rocks like this are found throughout Japan and are religiously significant in Shinto; they celebrate the union in marriage of man and woman. The "husband" rock (22.6 meters high), with a phallic bulge, is the one closer to shore. The "wife" rock (23.1 meters high) faces her husband with a vertical crevasse that goes completely through the rock. There are a number of other interesting rock formations along this part of the coast, including one that looks like a person’s head. In the early afternoon, Dr. Screech gave another fascinating lecture on “Art & Culture in the Time of the Shoguns.” Later in the afternoon, we were given a special treat: a concert ashore by the world-famous musical group, the Kodō Taiko Performing Arts Ensemble (https://www.kodo.or.jp/en/). The ensemble performs traditional music from Sado Island and other parts of Japan as well as new compositions. Although their focus is on taiko, the group includes other traditional Japanese musical instruments, Western musical instruments, song, and dance in their performances. They regularly tour Japan, Europe, and the United States. Today’s was an energetic and outstanding performance. The ship provided shuttle buses to the performance venue, the Kodō Community Hall, and local people guided those (like us) who preferred to walk the 0.6 mile there. Along the way, we could see the harbor where short boat rides in the taraibune are available. On the way back, we took a detour down a side street to visit the Kizaki Shrine, which was founded in 1609 to pray for the prosperity of the Sado gold and silver mines and the safe transportation of gold and silver. Back at the dock, we were each given the gift of a paper crane and a note thanking us for visiting Sado Island; we also took the opportunity to taste some saké. As the ship departed, we were treated to another taiko performance by local young people. Just before dinner, there was a caviar tasting. MONDAY, MAY 27, 2024—SAKATA, JAPAN (Mt. Chokai, Maruike-sama, Tamasudare Falls) Sakata (https://sakatacity.com/) was developed during the Edo period as one of the most important ports of call on the Kitamaebune trading routes along the coast of Japan from Osaka to Hokkaido. Our tour today, “Mt. Chōkai and Tamasudare Falls,” would take us to the undeveloped mountainous region northeast of Sakata. Our guide today was Sam, who was part of the Smithsonian Journeys staff. Although the weather today was unsettled with intermittent rain, we had views of snow-capped Mt. Chōkai from the port. The ship was greeted by taiko drummers and a welcome committee of tourism ambassadors, some in lovely kimonos. We drove north along the coast and then turned inland as we climbed the slopes of Mt. Chōkai (2,236 m or 7,336 ft ASL), an active volcano that last erupted in the 1970s. The bus took us to the 5th station (1,150 m or 3,773 ft ASL), where there are restrooms and a visitor center. This is the trail head for the Kisakata or Hakadote trail, the most popular route to the summit. Although the trails are technically open all year, they are usually covered by snow until early August. In May, there were plenty of snow patches and the weather was cold and windy with occasional rain. We did hike a short distance on the trail and found star magnolias, a type of deciduous magnolia, blooming. There is also an observation platform, the Hokodate View Terrace. The view towards the Sea of Japan was obscured by clouds, but facing towards the mountain we could look down over the deep, V-shaped Naso Valley. There are also good views from several spots in the parking lot. From here, we drove down the slopes and around the base of Mt. Chōkai, past many rice paddies, to the Minowa Salmon Hatchery near the town of Yuza. This is the start of the short trail through a cedar forest to the Maruike-sama Pond, a clear, emerald-green pond fed by spring-water from the mountain top. The pond is worshiped as a deity at the Maruike Shrine located adjacent to the pond. Finally we headed back to Sakata City to take a short 10-minute hike to Tamasudare-no-taki Falls (https://sakatacity.com/todo/tamasudare-falls/). Legend has it that the renowned Buddhist monk, Kōbō Daishi, discovered and named Tamasudare (beaded curtain) Falls after having a divine dream; the falls have been worshiped ever since as a sacred location. Along the way we passed the Mearai Stone (Eye-Cleansing Stone), marked as sacred by a rice straw rope (shimenawa). Water collected in a hollow on top of the stone is said to cure eye ailments. Just in front of the falls is the Mitake-jinja Shrine. The falls plunge about 200 feet (63 m) straight down over a cliff face of dark volcanic rocks. The spray from the falls is said to purify visitors’ bodies and souls. The falls are surrounded by a grove of tall cedar trees, including sacred trees a thousand years old. Back at the dock, it was still raining. Nevertheless, we had an enthusiastic sendoff by approximately 50 dancers. Later in the afternoon, we had the disembarkation talk. That was followed with a flute performance by Reison Kuroda, who also showed us how the traditional Japanese flute is made. Next came a lecture by Dr. Freedman on “Issues in Contemporary Japan.” Finally there was a Farewell Gala Cocktail Party and Dinner. TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2024—HAKODATE, JAPAN (HKD to HND to YYZ to RDU) This morning we had to place our luggage outside our stateroom by 6 a.m. and meet in the Main Lounge at 8:40 a.m. for the included bus transfer to the Hakodate Airport. That left us plenty of time to enjoy another breakfast in the dining room. Our flight to Tokyo Haneda was at 11:50 a.m. I used part of our time in the airport spending the remaining funds on our Suica cards plus a few extra yen to buy some Royce chocolate bars. Once at Tokyo Haneda, we had to transfer to Terminal 3 to wait for our 5:40 p.m. flight to Toronto. We spent our time in the ANA Lounge. I did leave briefly to buy some green tea as a gift for a neighbor and to use up the last of my yen. Alas, the Air Canada Signature Suite lounge that we enjoyed so much before the flight to Tokyo is only for international departures. Since we were taking a transborder flight, we had to settle for a regular Maple Leaf Lounge. Nevertheless, it was a nice place to relax for a couple of hours before the 8:50 p.m. flight to Raleigh/Durham. Once we arrived at RDU, our plane sat on on the runway for longer than half an hour. A JetBlue flight from Boston to Fort Lauderdale had been diverted to RDU because of a possible hydraulic issue, so the airport shut down all gates and runways. The plane was off to the side surrounded by fire trucks, but fortunately no one was injured during the emergency landing. We finally got home around 1:15 a.m. on the 27th. Needless to say, this was a fantastic trip with many outstanding experiences. This was our first time on a Smithsonian Journeys cruise and we were definitely impressed! The selection of excursions and especially the speakers and the flute artist were amazing. The Smithsonian-provided guides were also excellent and even helped us on the last day at the Hakodate airport. The parts of Japan we saw on both cruises are generally not included in typical large ship itineraries (of course there are some overlaps), and we felt that we got a chance to see a less-frantic and less-crowded version of this beautiful country. We were especially interested in visiting beautiful gardens and we saw plenty of those on the two cruises. Of course, we also thoroughly enjoyed our time in Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto as part of our self-directed pre-cruise visit. Once we recover from our jet lag, we will be anxious to get back to planning more travel including a Ponant/Smithsonian Journeys cruise on the Great Lakes from Toronto to Milwaukee.

This is a journal of our May 13-21, 2024, “The Best of Japan” eight-night cruise aboard the Ponant Le Soléal. Our journal of the May 21-28, 2024, “Cultural and Natural Treasures of Japan by Sea-with Smithsonian Journeys” seven-night cruise is posted separately. We had previously visited several ports in Japan (Muroran, Kagoshima, Okinawa) on a trans-Pacific cruise with Princess in 2008. That cruise piqued our desire to see more of Japan someday, so we booked a back-to-back Japan cruise with Princess for spring 2021. Those cruises were canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, as were the ones we rebooked for spring 2022. We rebooked yet again for spring 2023. When Japan finally reopened to foreign visitors in October 2022, we realized that the pent-up demand for visiting in the spring flower season would be enormous and the sites would be overcrowded. Reluctantly, we decided to cancel the 2023 cruises as well. We expected that the tourist demand to visit Japan would ease somewhat by 2024. However, we felt that we would have a more authentic experience by booking a smaller ship that could visit less touristy ports. We also chose to avoid the popular spring flower season and visit in May after the busy “Golden Week.” We spent five nights in Tokyo and two nights in Osaka pre-cruise on our own. Information on our pre-cruise is posted at https://boards.cruisecritic.com/topic/3015342-our-diy-pre-cruise-in-tokyo-osaka-kyoto/. CRUISE ITINERARY Osaka, Japan; Tamano, Japan; Hiroshima, Japan; Miyajima Island, Japan; Uwajima, Japan; Kagoshima, Japan; Nagasaki, Japan; Busan, South Korea; Sakaiminato, Japan; Maizuru, Japan ABOUT US John and I (Carolyn) are retired Mississippi State University professors in our early seventies, who currently reside in central North Carolina. Both of us are natives of New Orleans and, as such, are interested in good food and wine. For souvenirs of our trips, we like to collect small regional or national flags. Because of our previous cruise in this region, we already had flags for Japan and South Korea. We enjoy both cruises and land tours; often our trips combine the two. We have set foot on all seven continents, primarily in the Americas and Europe. We have previously sailed with Princess, Royal Caribbean, Holland America, Celebrity, Costa, and Commodore. This was our sixth cruise with Ponant. On our trips, we prefer nature and wildlife tours that involve snorkeling, SCUBA diving, or hiking. In particular, we will hike for miles to see waterfalls, volcanoes, caves, or other interesting geologic features. We also enjoy lighthouses, forts, castles, and anything else we can legally climb up on for a good view. Fortunately, neither of us has mobility issues. We also exercise regularly, walking six miles a day for five days a week. In general, we prefer DIY port tours, independent tours with other Cruise Critic roll call members, or shared public tours. Because many of the ports on this cruise were not major tourist destinations, we mostly chose ship excursions, with only a couple of DIY excursions. ABOUT THE REVIEW Our reviews are primarily a journal of what we did in the various ports, including web links to tourist information sites and maps. For those who wish more information on the ship and the onboard experience, please see the report on our first cruise with Ponant aboard Le Soléal in 2020 (www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=680008). SUGGESTED RESOURCES “History of Japan: Revised Edition Revised Edition, Kindle Edition” (2011) by Richard Mason and J. G. Caiger  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LPUEPK/) "Tokyo Before Tokyo: Power and Magic in the Shogun's City of Edo” (2020)  by Timon Screech (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L6MQH41/) Google Translate App (https://support.google.com/translate/answer/6350850) MONDAY, MAY 13, 2024—OSAKA, JAPAN (Board Le Soléal) After visiting Osaka Castle this morning, we relaxed at the Courtyard Shin-Osaka Station before taking the subway to the Tempozan-Osaka Cruise Terminal; the trip takes about 45 minutes. It is short walk (1/3 mile) on level ground from the Osakako Station to the cruise terminal. The terminal is adjacent to the Tempozan Harbor Village (https://www.kaiyukan.com/language/eng/), an amusement and shopping complex centered around the Osaka Aquarium. We considered a visit to the Aquarium, but decided we did not have enough time to appreciate it. When we arrived at the terminal shortly before 3 p.m., there were already two other couples waiting to board. Six (or maybe three) must be a magic number, because we had barely sat down before we were allowed to board. When we checked in, we received our cruise cards, which served as our stateroom keys. These cards are scanned at the mandatory Lifeboat Drill and whenever we left or returned to the ship. Our passports were collected, but we had to retrieve them the next morning. Those who are not Japanese citizens must carry their passport at all times when they are on Japanese soil. It is a legal requirement and local police may ask to check your identification. We had to present our passports at every port. Our stateroom was ready, so we dropped off our hand luggage and headed to the Main Lounge for some celebratory Champagne to fête the start of our cruise. There was an interesting passenger mix on this cruise. Slightly fewer than half were French speakers and the rest seemed to be English speakers. There were two large tour groups onboard: Tauck and the American Horticultural Society. We presumed almost everyone in those groups was from the US or Canada. Their shore excursions were separate from the ones offered for the rest of us. Later in the afternoon, the Assistant Shore Excursion Manager, Margaud, had a briefing on the excursions available for the 15 English speakers (mostly Australians) who were not in either of those tour groups. That was followed by a Welcome Speech by Captain Ducournau; the Life Onboard talk by the Cruise Director, Tino; and the mandatory Lifeboat Drill. That was followed by dinner. Executive Chef Belliot included Japanese as well as French dishes on the menu. Later we managed to stay up after 10 p.m. to be out on deck when the ship passed under the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge—the second longest suspension bridge in the world. The bridge was impressively illuminated by multicolored lights. TUESDAY, MAY 14, 2024—TAMANO, JAPAN (Ritsurin Garden, Yashima-ji Temple, Kandaka Shojuen Bonsai Garden) The weather looked like it would be perfect for the next few days. Today it was sunny, with cooler temperatures in the morning and warming up nicely in the afternoon. The ship was sailing through the Seto Inland Sea, which is dotted with hundreds of small islands, mostly uninhabited. This morning we docked at the Uno Port near the city of Tamano (https://tamano-art.jp/en/access), which is on Japan's mainland, Honshu Island. There were 33 people on our all-day tour today and 31 of them spoke French. There was an English-speaking local guide assigned just to the two of us, essentially a private tour. At every site, Hiroko could take us ahead of or on a different route from the herd, so we had a much better experience. Hiroko was very personable and her comments and information greatly enhanced the tour. She mentioned that she had gone to college in Tennessee near Chattanooga, and we asked whether she meant the University of the South in Suwanee. Indeed she did! She said we were the first people she had met on her tours who knew what that was. To reach the sights on today's tour, we drove across the Seto Ohashi Bridge, which connects Honshu Island and Shikoku Island. It is actually a series of six bridges across five small islands. It is also the world's longest double-decker bridge, with highway traffic on the top deck and rail traffic on the bottom deck. There are great views of the Seto Inland Sea. Our first visit was to the Ritsurin Garden (https://www.my-kagawa.jp/en/travel-ideas/riturinnrekishi), considered one of Japan's finest parks. It is quite large and includes 6 ponds, 15 bridges, and 13 hills. The ponds are full of koi and we saw a number of Amur soft-shell turtles. There are many pine trees that have been trained in elaborate designs and rocks that are valued for their unusual shapes; Hiroko pointed out the most notable ones. The lower branches of many pines are supported with T-shaped posts to keep them from breaking when they are covered in snow. Since we were not walking with the large group, we were able to cover about half of the park. I saw a man in a sedge hat and white vest carrying a staff. I thought he was a gardener, but Hiroko said that garb marked him as a pilgrim making the Shikoku 88-temple Pilgrimage around the island. We also saw a bride and groom wearing traditional kimonos having their photos made. [Note: The Shikoku pilgrimage route (or Shikoku Henro) is one of the few circular pilgrimages in the world. It includes 88 “official” temples and numerous other sacred sites where the Buddhist priest Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi) is believed to have trained or have spent time during the 9th century. If walked, the entire route is about 1,200 km (746 mi) long and takes about six weeks. (https://shikoku-tourism.com/en/shikoku-henro/shikoku-henro)] Next we headed to the Yashima-ji Temple (https://88shikokuhenro.jp/en/nanmenzan-senkoin-yashimaji/), the 84th temple on the route, where we encountered more pilgrims. Hiroko greeted two Japanese pilgrim couples, who were making the pilgrimage by car. We also talked to a third couple, who were from Washington. They had already spent 50 days walking the route; the soles of their walking shoes were worn down and their walking staffs were frayed on the ends. It was quite interesting hearing about their experiences during their walk and the generosity of local people to the pilgrims. Yashima-ji is believed to have been founded by the Chinese monk, Ganjin, in 754. Later the temple was converted to Shingon Buddhism by Kōbō Daishi in 815. Kōbō Daishi is also believed to have carved an Eleven-faced Thousand-armed Kannon to be the main image of the temple. The temple is also associated with the Battle of Yashima, which was fought between the Minamoto and Taira clans in 1185. The temple has relics of the battle and a small pond, known as the "Pond of Blood," that is said to be where the Minamoto warriors washed the blood of their enemies from their swords. The temple grounds also contain large, stone images of Minoyama Daimyojin, a shape-shifting tanuki (raccoon dog). There are legends of the tanuki, in the shape of an old man, meeting Kōbō Daishi and guiding him through the fog. Now the portly, large-testicled Minoyama Daimyojin is a demi-god who bestows good fortune on childbearing, marriage, and family happiness. After the temple, we had a typical Japanese lunch at Go Yashiki (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298232-d7450344-Reviews-Go_Yashiki-Takamatsu_Kagawa_Prefecture_Shikoku.html). This restaurant is housed in an historic traditional mansion and is very popular for business lunches and entertaining dignitaries (there was an ambassador having photos taken in the garden). Our meal started with several pieces of sashimi, a piece of nigiri, some cooked vegetables, and moshi (balls of sweetened rice paste topped with sweetened bean paste). Then there was some tempura, which was the best we had had so far. The pièce de résistance was a large bowl of udon noodles. These come with a small bowl of dashi broth, to which you add green onions, bonito flakes, and seaweed to taste. The servers brought the dashi first, and we thought it was a soup. However, Hiroko instructed us to pour all the optional ingredients into the broth and later stir in some noodles before eating them. We were glad to have Hiroko to show us how to eat this dish because the guide for the French group did not explain this to his group; Hiroko had to stop the French at the next table from drinking all their dashi. Hiroko said these were really good udon; she ate two big bowls! I could only finish half of mine. Our last visit of the day was to the Kandaka Shojuen Bonsai Garden (https://takamatsu-bonsai.com/en/) which had an immense number of beautiful bonsai. Again, we could separate from the French group and have a private visit with the bonsai master, who showed us how he was pruning the trees with his fingers. Hiroko had a book that illustrated the various shapes of bonsai, which was helpful for appreciating the trees in the nursery. We also saw a famous 400-year old pine tree whose lower branches have been trained on supports to cover a large area around the base of the tree. This tree is not technically a bonsai because it is planted in the ground, not a container. This stop was much more interesting than we had anticipated. Back on the ship, we had to hustle to get ready for the Captain's cocktail party and a Gala Dinner. Later that evening, around 9 p.m., we went out on deck to watch the ship sail under the Seto Ohashi Bridge. WEDNESDAY, MAY 15, 2024—HIROSHIMA, JAPAN (Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Peace Memorial Park, Hiroshima Peace Memorial, A-Bomb Dome, Orizuru Tower) This was a beautiful morning for a depressing tour, “Remembering Horoshima.” We would be visiting several sites commemorating the atomic bomb blast that obliterated the city of Hiroshima (https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/), on Honshu Island, on August 6, 1945. Our guide today was Mee (Mutsumi); she is one of the local guides traveling with the ship and a Hiroshima native. She was handicapped today by the Whisper tour guide system, which was full of static. Fortunately, there were only 15 English speakers on the tour, so she finally gave up on the microphone and just spoke to us in her own voice. Our first stop was at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (https://hpmmuseum.jp/?lang=eng), which consists of two connected buildings. The main building is devoted to the events of August 6: the dropping of the bomb and its outcome in human suffering. There are many photographs and personal effects, both of those who died in the bombing and those who survived it. In some ways, those who died immediately were luckier than those who suffered terrible burns and the effects of radiation poisoning, which sometimes led to death days, weeks, or years later. In addition to the physical effects, survivors had to cope with the psychological trauma of losing their loved ones in the blast or watching them die later. The second building surveys the history of Hiroshima before, during, and after World War II. It outlines the development of nuclear weapons and their proliferation during the Cold War. Finally, it covers efforts to promote nuclear disarmament. After visiting the museum, we had a walking tour through the Peace Memorial Park (https://peace-tourism.com/en/spot/entry-194.html), which is dotted with memorials. The central feature is the Memorial Monument for Hiroshima, City of Peace (AKA Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims). This memorial evokes an ancient arch-shaped house, intended to shelter the souls of the victims from the elements. The monument is inscribed with the words, "Let all the souls here rest in peace; For we shall not repeat the evil." The stone chest in the center holds 108 books listing the names of people who were present at the time of the bombing, either those who died that day or who died in later years. The list is updated annually as survivors of the blast die. While we were there, a special ceremony was being held in which the books are removed from the chest and placed in the sunlight before being returned. Behind the Cenotaph is the Peace Flame, which has burned continuously since it was lit in 1964. It is not intended to be an eternal flame, but only to remain lit until all nuclear weapons are destroyed and the world is free from the threat of nuclear annihilation. Another notable monument is the Children’s Peace Monument, which was built using donations from schoolchildren. It is dedicated to all the children who died in the bombing and was inspired by the story of Sadako Sasaki. She was two-years old at the time of the bombing and developed leukemia when she was 11. In Japan, the crane is the symbol of longevity and happiness. She believed that if she folded 1,000 orizuru (paper cranes), she would recover; she died when she was 12. Now groups of schoolchildren visit this memorial to sing and leave garlands of paper cranes; a group did this while we were there. Near this monument is the Peace Bell, a large Japanese bell hanging inside a small open-sided structure. Visitors are encouraged to ring the bell for world peace. We continued through the park to views of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial (AKA A-Bomb Dome), the skeletal ruins of the former Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall. It is the building closest to the hypocenter of the nuclear bomb that remained at least partially standing. It was left as it was after the bombing in memory of the casualties. We crossed the T-shaped bridge, which marked the target for the bomb drop, to get better views of the dome. Finally, we visited the Hiroshima Orizuru Tower (https://www.orizurutower.jp/en/). The observation deck on the top offers a great view of the Peace Memorial Park and the A-Bomb Dome from above. We could also see the Hiroshima Castle, which was rebuilt after being destroyed in WW II. On the 12th floor of the tower is a station where you can try to fold orizuru. These cranes can be kept as a souvenir or dropped down into the Orizuru Wall, a glass panel wall that will one day be filled up with these folded cranes. We added our pathetic efforts to the wall. On the way back to the ship, Mee explained how fans cheer on their baseball team, the Hiroshima Toyo Carp. The fans wear a team cap and jersey and carry two toy baseball bats in the team colors (red and white). There is a special cheer that the fans sing after every score, while simultaneously striking the bats together. Mee gave a rousing performance, which John recorded; we all joined in by cheering "Banzai! Banzai! Banzai!" at the end. WEDNESDAY, MAY 15, 2024—MIYAJIMA ISLAND, JAPAN (Itsukushima Shrine, Daishoin Temple, Five-Storied Pagoda, Hokoku Shrine) After lunch, the ship repositioned to Miyajima Island (https://www.miyajima.or.jp/english/), a short distance from Hiroshima; this is a tender port. The ship offered tours here, but John had researched the sights and we toured on our own. The town is infested with small, aggressive Sitka deer. They are considered sacred because they are thought to be messengers of the gods. Supposedly they will attack purses or pockets if they think there is food in them. There are signs asking tourists not to touch or feed the deer, but of course people were petting and feeding them anyway. The primary attraction here is the Itsukushima Shrine (https://www.itsukushimajinja.jp/en/), whose entrance is guarded by a magnificent vermilion torii that is located offshore. We were lucky to be here at high tide because then the torii appears to be floating on the sea. Actually, the entire complex of shrines and other buildings is built on piers, but the tide was not high enough today for all of them to be standing in the water. The shrine is dedicated to three Shinto deities who are the goddesses of seas and storms; those goddesses are believed to be manifestations of the Bodhisattva Kannon. This shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After exiting the main shrine complex, we viewed the Daiganji Temple (dedicated to the Goddess Benzaiten) and passed the Treasure Hall and the Miyajima History and Folklore Museum. We could see that the two-tiered Tahoto Pagoda was covered in scaffolding, so we did not try to climb up to it. Instead, we climbed up Mt. Misen to the Daishō-in Temple (https://daisho-in.com/). This is another complex of a main hall, multiple shrines, and other structures. This temple is dedicated to Kannon and there are many statues of the bodisattva and of Buddha. After viewing those, we walked farther up the mountain opposite the temple complex along a scenic stream, which featured several small waterfalls. We came back down the mountain to visit the Five-Storied Gojunoto Pagoda and the Hokoku Shrine (Senjokaku). Then we went on a scavenger hunt for minor shrines that John had marked on his map (https://www.miyajima.or.jp/english/map/pdf/Miyajima2022_En.pdf). Those were not easy to find and we finally gave up and returned to the ship. Before dinner we enjoyed a Pata Negra Tasting of this special Iberian ham. THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2024—UWAJIMA, JAPAN (Doi Pearl, Yusumizugaura Terrace Field, Nanraku-en Garden) Today we were docked in Uwajima (https://www-uwajima-org.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US), on Shikoku Island. As we arrived in port, the ship was greeted by fishing boats flying colorful flags. On the dock, there were several men dressed as samurai. Unfortunately, Ponant did not offer tours to Uwajima Castle or the Taga Shrine, which is dedicated to fertility and is full of phalluses. The tour we took might sound boring in comparison, but it turned out to be quite interesting. We again had a small group tour, with a dedicated local guide, Kaori, for the six Anglophones. The "Highlights of Uwajima" would cover three more aspects of Japanese culture. Our first stop was at Doi Pearl (https://www.doi-pearl.co.jp/en/), where we learned all about the method of pearl culturing. While the French group was watching that presentation, we went out on the dock to see the nets that hold the oysters in a vertical array and the wooden frames that suspend the nets in the water. Here the oysters recuperate from being seeded before being moved farther out in the bay for a year while the pearl develops. There was a staffer on the dock who explained this process and opened three oysters to reveal the lovely pearls inside. In practice, the pearls are removed mechanically, which crushes the oyster body. The body is used for fish food and only the adductor muscle, which opens and closes the shell, is eaten by humans. The shells are sent to South Korea, where the mother-of-pearl is made into cosmetics and the shell into other products. Next we went inside the factory to see the culturing process, which is all done manually. The factory buys two-year-old oysters and relaxes them so they can be seeded. The mantle from another oyster (which is then discarded) is trimmed to keep only the middle section; that is cut into many tiny pieces and dyed red. An incision is made in the body of an oyster and a piece of the mantle and a nucleus are inserted. For high-quality pearls, this nucleus is made from pearl shells; lower quality pearls use glass or plastic beads. The piece of mantle will eventually coat the nucleus. The resulting pearls will be uniform in size, but this process is only successful 60% of the time. The instruments used in this operation are only dipped in seawater between oysters and John wondered whether this could spread disease among the oysters. However he was told that disinfectants would irritate the oyster and affect the production of the pearl. Naturally, the factory has a gift shop. The necklaces and other jewelry are gorgeous, but expensive; many pieces run in the tens of thousands of dollars. Shikoku Island is quite mountainous. There is little flat land to cultivate, so the mountain slopes were terraced using stacked stones. Many of these farms have been abandoned, but we visited the Yusumizugaura Terrace Field (https://www.uwajima.org/spot/index8.html), which is maintained by a cooperative of 30 owners. It is 80 meters high with 16 terraces on a bowl-shaped slope and resembles a Greek or Roman theater. The terraces were once used to grow mulberry trees for feeding silkworms, but now are used to grow potatoes. The group climbed about halfway up the terraces for views of the ocean, where they were farming sea bass. Back at the bottom, we had a taste of saké made from potatoes and there was a shop selling potatoes that had been produced here. Our final stop was at the Nanraku-en Garden (https://www.nanreku.jp/site/nanrakuen/); where we would observe a very abbreviated tea ceremony. First, we took a tour of the garden, which is quite scenic. Then we went to the tea house. An actual Japanese tea ceremony is a highly choreographed ritual of preparing and serving Japanese green tea and takes several hours. The Tea Master, who was wearing a gorgeous kimono, demonstrated how to sit during the ceremony, how to place the matcha (green tea powder) in the bowl, how to add a ladle of boiling water from a cauldron, how to whisk the water into the matcha to make bubbles, how to hold the bowl of tea, how to take several sips of tea, and how to finish off the tea by slurping to show that you enjoyed it. Thankfully, we got to sit in a chair instead of on our feet. We were given a small piece of Japanese candy to eat to balance the bitter taste of the tea and then a bowl that already had the matcha and hot water in it. All we had to do was whisk the tea and drink it. At least we got an idea of what a tea ceremony is like. After that, we had about 15 minutes of free time, which could be spent in the gift shop or toilet. John and I were the only ones who used the time to visit more of the garden. In the afternoon, we went to two lectures. The first was on "Japanese Gardens and Their Influences," by Holly Shimizu from the AHS. The second was by our special guest lecturer, Anita Henry, who is an expert on kimonos and wears them all the time. Her talk was on "Ito Jakuchu, Painter-Monk Appreciated by Emperors." Both of those were worth going to. As we left port, we were treated to a performance of Japanese drumming (taiko) by a local group. At dinner tonight we were invited to join the Travel Ambassador (i.e., future cruise salesperson), Alix, and an older couple from Perth, Australia. We had some interesting conversation. Afterwards we actually made it to a show, "Edith Piaf Tribute," by the ship's singer Anna Rita. FRIDAY, MAY 17, 2024—KAGOSHIMA, JAPAN (Chin Jukan Pottery House, Kinzan-gura Distillery) We had visited Kagoshima (https://www.kagoshima-kankou.com/for), on Kyushu Island, once before on a Princess cruise. Then we had taken a DIY tour on the local ferry to Sakurajima, an active volcano that faces Kinko Bay. On that visit, Sakurajima emitted several puffs of smoke when the ship was leaving port, as if it was bidding us goodbye. Today, however, the volcano seemed quiescent. We had an afternoon tour today, so we could sleep in a bit. We have adjusted to the 13-hour time change and have been regularly sleeping until 6 a.m. Right before lunch, Captain Ducournau held a cocktail party for those with Grand Admiral or higher status. There was plenty of Champagne and heavy hors d'oeuvres. We did not have time to go to the dining room for lunch before our tour, so we went to the buffet for some spring rolls and a small serving of lamb teppanyaki with vegetables and noodles. We again had an almost-private tour; there was only one other English-speaking couple (from New Zealand). Our local guide, Tomoko, was sometimes hard to hear because she had a problem keeping her microphone in front of her mouth. She was once a dancer with the Japanese National Theater and shared some photos of that time in her life. We only visited two sights on our tour today, “Miyama Pottery Town and Shochu Distillery.” First, we drove to Miyama Village to visit the Chin Jukan Pottery House (https://chinjukanpottery.com/). This pottery has been producing fine Satsuma ware for 15 generations, spanning 400 years. We toured their museum of antique pottery, then viewed the kilns and storehouse and watched the artists working on new pieces. These are not rustic pots; they are works of art. Some are elegantly simple, while others feature intricate cutout designs and enhancements such as detailed insects. There was not much explanation of the pottery making process; a diagram would have been very helpful. Of course, there was a sales room. The pottery was even more expensive than the pearls we saw yesterday, but a few people bought small pieces. Next we drove to Ichikikushikino City to tour the Kinzan-gura Distillery (https://www.hamadasyuzou.co.jp/en/kinzan/) and learn about shochu. Like saké, shochu is a traditional Japanese alcoholic beverage. Saké is made by fermenting rice and can only contain four ingredients: rice, water, yeast, and koji (cooked rice that has been inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae). On the other hand, shochu starts by fermenting rice and other ingredients (sweet potatoes, wheat, buckwheat, barley, corn, brown sugar, chestnuts, sesame seeds, potatoes, carrots) may be added during a second fermentation; then the shochu is distilled. Whereas saké is 15-16% alcohol, shochu is 25-35% alcohol. At Kinzan-gura Distillery, the shochu is fermented, aged, and stored in some of the 75-miles (120 km) of tunnels of a former gold mine. Visitors take a trolley ride 750 meters into the mine and tour the tunnels to learn how traditional shochu is made. After the visit, there is a tasting in the sales room. As would be expected from the wide variety of possible added ingredients, there are many types of shochu; some of the versions even have gold flakes added. Shochu is reminiscent of very alcoholic saké; we did not find it appealing. Dinner tonight featured a Bordier (https://www.maisonbordier.com/en/) cheese buffet for dessert. There were at least 15 types of outstanding cheese—a cheese lover's delight. We hoped that some if the leftovers will appear on the lunch buffet in coming days. SATURDAY, MAY 18, 2024—NAGASAKI, JAPAN (Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture, Dejima Island, Oura Catholic Church, Glover Garden) Today we called at Nagasaki (https://www.discover-nagasaki.com/en), on Kyushu island. The Diamond Princess was also in port and docked close to some of the main attractions. We were docked only a short distance farther away, next to the Nagasaki Seaside Park, where a flea market was held later in the day. Fumiko was the guide this morning for our six-person English-speaking group. Today the Whisper microphone and receivers were working much better, which greatly improved the tour experience. We had heard enough about the effects of the August 1945 destruction of Hiroshima and Nagasaki when we were in Hiroshima two days ago. We wanted to focus today's visit on how Nagasaki developed as the sole window opened to trade with foreign countries during the period of Japan's national isolation (1641-1859). Prior to the adoption of the sakoku (locked country) policy, trade with other countries was largely unrestricted and large numbers of foreign traders were resident in Japan and active in Japanese waters. However, the shogunate was aware that the Spanish had taken power in the Philippines after converting the population to Catholicism. As Christianity spread in Japan, the shogunate became more concerned about the colonial aspirations and religious influence of Spain and Portugal. Beginning in 1587 with a ban on Jesuit missionaries, Christianity was repressed as a threat to national unity. The first lethal persecution of Christians occurred in 1597, when the Twenty-Six Martyrs of Japan were crucified, impaled with lances, on a hill overlooking Nagasaki. After Christianity was banned in 1612, many Catholics went underground, becoming hidden Christians (kakure kirishitan), while others lost their lives in subsequent persecutions. The Dutch and English were generally seen by the Japanese to be able to separate religion and trade. Dutch traders were permitted to continue commerce in Japan only by agreeing not to engage in missionary activities. There was extensive trade with the Netherlands and China through the port of Nagasaki. However, both the Dutch and Chinese were confined to certain areas of the city and not allowed to interact with the local citizens. Our first tour stop was at the Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture (http://www.nmhc.jp/global/english/index.html). Most of this museum is devoted to the history of the "Overseas Exchange" during the sakoku period. There are many exhibits related to foreign trade and the influence that trade had on Japan. There is also a small section devoted to the persecution of the Japanese Christians. One artifact is a picture of Jesus that was used to identify suspected Christians; anyone who would not place their foot on the picture was condemned. Another part of the museum is a reconstruction of the Nagasaki Magistrate's Office. This section includes the Magistrate's living room, where he received dignitaries; the interrogation room, where he interrogated smugglers; and the courtroom, where he held trials. To enter the museum, we had to remove our shoes and place them in plastic bags; foot covers were provided. Next we continued to Dejima Island (https://nagasakidejima.jp/english/). This fan-shaped artificial island was originally constructed (1634-1636) to house the Portuguese in an attempt to curb the spread of Christianity. After the shogunate exiled all Portuguese from Japan in 1639, Dejima became the location of the Dutch Trading Post in 1641. Following Japan's emergence from national seclusion in 1859, the port of Nagasaki was opened and the Dutch Trading Post on Dejima closed for good. Dejima was absorbed into the city as the land around it was reclaimed and improvements were made to the harbor; the majority of its buildings were demolished. Dejima was designated a National Historic Site in 1922, but efforts to restore it to its appearance at the beginning of the 19th century did not begin until 1951. After careful archaeological excavations, information from documents and models in the Netherlands was used to recreate Dejima's buildings, right down to the wallpaper on the walls and the paint on the ceilings. Now you can tour the area and visit the buildings to learn about the history of Dejima, the way of daily life for the Dutch who lived there, and how the trading system worked between Japan and the Netherlands. Next we visited the Oura Catholic Church (https://oura-church.jp/guide-en/). It is both the oldest Gothic-style wooden building and the oldest church in Japan; it is the only Western artifact that has been designated a National Treasure. The church was founded by a French priest, Bernard Petijean, and is dedicated to the Twenty-Six Martyrs of Japan. The church was consecrated in 1865 and shortly after Father Petijean was approached by a group of local farmers whose families had kept their faith a secret for 250 years. When Japan's ban on Christianity was lifted in 1873, these hidden Christians could again practice their faith openly. We walked from the church to Glover Garden (https://glover-garden.jp/), which is situated on a picturesque hillside overlooking Nagasaki Harbor. It was built for Thomas Blake Glover, a Scottish merchant who contributed to the modernization of Japan in shipbuilding, coal mining, and other fields. The former Glover Residence is the oldest Western-style house surviving in Japan. The residence and its surroundings are reminiscent of scenery from Giacomo Puccini's opera, so it is also known as the "Madame Butterfly House." Statues of Puccini and diva Miura Tamaki, famed for her role as Cio-Cio-san, stand in the park near the house. This lovely park also features a number of late 19th- and early 20th-century Western-style buildings. Another building on the hillside is the Nagasaki Traditional Performing Arts Center (https://glover-garden.jp/activity-and-shop/ntpa-center/). The white and blue dragons used in the Dragon Dance at Nagasaki's autumn Kunchi Festival are displayed here. About five to seven Nagasaki neighborhood dance groups perform in the festival each year, presenting traditional Japanese dances, Chinese influenced dragon dances, or performances involving large floats (kasaboko), many of which are shaped like ships. These floats are also paraded around the city and many are displayed at this art center. Back at the ship, we caught the tail end of the seafood buffet and enjoyed some oysters, crab, and whelks. We would be sailing to South Korea overnight, so we had to undergo a Japanese customs and emmigration inspection onboard this afternoon. Tomorrow we would have to pass through Korean immigration inspections when we leave and return to the ship. As the ship was making ready to leave port, we were entertained by a high school band wishing us farewell. While that was still going on, there was a caviar tasting. After that, we had just enough time to make our way to the Observatory Lounge to see the ship pass under the Megami Ohashi Bridge. SUNDAY, MAY 19, 2024—BUSAN, SOUTH KOREA (Jagalchi Market, Haedong Yonggungsa Temple) This morning, the Diamond Princess was also in port in Busan (https://www.visitbusan.net/en/index.do). She is carrying more than 10 times as many passengers as Le Soleal and towers over our ship. Today, we only had 13 people total on our tour bus. Eight were the usual US/Aussie/Kiwi gang, two were a Canadian couple who speak French and English, two were French (the Captain's wife and young son), and the last was our kimono lecturer. We have concluded that John and I are the only two passengers from the US who are not in the Tauck or AHS groups. Our local guide was called Genie. First we visited the Jagalchi Market (https://jagalchimarket.bisco.or.kr/jagalchimarket/) in downtown Busan. We had visited here on our DIY tour to Busan in 2008, but it is worth a repeat visit. This fish and seafood market was established by women peddlers during the Korean War. Today vendors rent spaces in a large government-owned building. The upstairs section sells every kind of dried seafood imaginable. The ground floor features tank after tank of live seafood. In addition to more familiar creatures like gigantic flounders, squid, cuttlefish, octopus, various types of crabs, oysters, scallops, clams, whelks, shrimp, and abalone, there are more exotic creatures like eels, stingrays, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea squirts, sea worms, and blowfish (fugu). There is also a street market outside with even more stalls selling fresh fish and vegetables. From the city center, we drove north, crossing the Gwangan Grand Bridge (Diamond Bridge), the country’s longest suspension bridge. It has interesting spiral approach ramps. It is also a double-decker bridge; we left the city on the lower deck and returned on the upper deck. It is a good thing we were headed north because the upper deck and the southbound lanes were completely blocked off by pedestrians making the Diamond Bridge Walk. Traffic was backed up for miles, but Genie assured us that the walk would be over by the time we returned to Busan. After a 45-minute drive, we reached the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple (http://yongkungsa.or.kr/eng/01/01.php). Unlike most other temples, which are normally located in the mountains, this Buddhist temple is situated near the sea. The temple is extremely popular with sightseers and the entire site is relatively small, so it was very crowded. To reach the temple, we first had to walk through a commercial area, past the usual assortment of food and souvenir vendors. Next, we passed a row of 12 human statues with the heads of the 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac. Each animal is a special protector for those born in its corresponding year. (John and I were born in the Year of the Tiger.) Some people had left coins on their statue to ensure good luck. This temple honors Haesu Gwaneum Daebul, the Sea Water Great Goddess Buddha. This bodhisattva is also known as Avalokiteśvara, Guanyin, or Kannon. This is one of only three temples in South Korea dedicated to this deity. Next comes a seven a story pagoda; it is the Traffic Safety Prayer Pagoda and the sign is posted on a shiny car tire. At this point, you can choose to take either steps or a ramp down to the main temple. Genie suggested that we take the ramp down and the stairs back up, which would take us on a roughly circular path through the site. The name Haedong Yonggungsa, which means “Korean Dragon Palace Temple,” comes from a vision of the Goddess of Mercy riding a dragon, which was experienced by the head monk during meditation. [Note: We saw a painting of Kannon riding a dragon in the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo. https://www.momat.go.jp/en/collection/oki096] As we neared the end of the ramp, we had some side views of the Daeungjeon (Main Hall). It is decorated with plenty of colorful carved dragons and pictures of dragons on the outside walls. Before we reached the Main Hall, we passed a shrine where a Buddhist monk was conducting a ceremony for a recently-deceased person. There was also a service going on inside the Main Hall, so we only could take photos of the outside at a respectful distance. To the left of the Main Hall is a large golden Happy Buddha and a shrine with a golden reclining Buddha. Next to that, there are stairs up to a platform with a statue of Kannon in the guise of Haesu Gwaneum Daebul. The entire temple area had scaffolding for hanging colorful paper lanterns to celebrate the Gautama Buddha's Birthday, which was observed this year in South Korea on May 15. The lanterns were still hanging throughout most of the site, but they had been removed from the scaffolding that still obscured the statue. We went back down to the front of the Main Hall, where there is a platform with a three-tier stone pagoda that faces the sea like a lighthouse. There are four lions (symbolizing joy, anger, sadness, and happiness) supporting the pagoda. Next we crossed the Half Moon Bridge to reach the steps back up to the entrance. We detoured from the path to visit a large rocky outcrop where people go to watch the sunrise. From here, we had the classic, picture-postcard side view of Haedong Yonggungsa and of the coastline. Heading back to the stairs, we passed a shrine to the Yacksayeorae Healing Buddha, also known as the Stone Buddha Wearing a Gat (a Korean traditional hat with wide round brim). Farther along we saw the Buddha for Academic Achievement and later the Buddha for Granting a Son. By the way, there are 108 steps up, which represent the 108 vices that afflict human life. On each step, you can pray to be rid of one of the vices. Back at the bus, we discovered that the Captain's wife and son were nowhere to be found. After much frantic telephoning between our bus and the bus carrying the French passengers, they were finally located. All's well that ends well. We returned to the ship in time to enjoy some chocolate treats at teatime. Perhaps that was a mistake as we later had a five-course Farewell Gala Evening dinner. We were so full that we had to take the three post-dessert gourmandise back to our cabin for breakfast tomorrow. MONDAY, MAY 20, 2024—SAKAIMINATO, JAPAN (Abe Eishiro Memorial Museum, Matsue Castle) Today we were back on Honshu Island, in the busy fishing port of Sakaiminato (https://www.whatsinport.com/Sakaiminato.htm). Since we had just come from South Korea, we had to go through a customs and immigration inspection this morning to reenter Japan. The next cruise also visits South Korea, so we will have to have another inspection to exit Japan and later another to reenter Japan. Foreigners are required to carry their passports at all times when they are on land in Japan and the officials have scrutinized them every time we left the ship. Today we had six in the English-speaking group or, as our guide Tanny put it, on the English team. Tanny is under the delusion that we will learn Japanese from the flag he is using to lead us, which has five of Buddha's precepts on it. The only Japanese characters that I have managed to learn are the ones for "man" and "woman" so I can find the right toilet. On the way to our first tour stop, we swung by Sakaiminato Station to see a huge mural of characters created by Shigeru Mizuki, who was born here and is known for his yōkai manga (graphic novels about supernatural creatures). His characters are featured in statues and posters all around town and in a museum dedicated to the artist. It took nearly an hour to reach the Abe Eishiro Memorial Museum (https://izumomingeishi.com/abeeishirou/), dedicated to Abe Eishiro (1903-1985), master craftsman in hand-made Japanese paper (washi). Abe refined and improved the traditional methods of making washi and worked to promote and preserve the craft. Paper made by his process is called izumomingeishi (folkcraft paper of the Izumo Region). Washi is commonly made using fibers from the bark of the gampi tree, but other materials can be used. We watched a short movie that showed the entire process: harvesting the bark, boiling the bark in water and soda ash to soften the fibers, rinsing and soaking the fibers to remove impurities, pounding and beating the fibers to break them up. The beaten fiber is put in a vat with water and neri, a liquid extracted from the roots of the Tororo Aoi plant. By now the mixture has the consistency of dissolved toilet paper. Sheets of paper are made by scooping into the solution with a bamboo screen, which is shaken from side to side to distribute it evenly. Excess water is poured off and the frame is inverted on top of previously made paper sheets while it is still wet. The stack of paper is pressed with a jack to remove excess moisture and finally individual sheets are hung on drying boards. Approximately 250 sheets can be made in a day this way. After watching the movie, we were supposed to make some paper ourselves. Fortunately, all the hard work had already been done for us. We were given small wooden frames with screening on one side. We dipped the frames in the tubs of fiber/neri/water mixture and tried to distribute it evenly by shaking. We inverted the screens onto a piece of cloth and used another part of the cloth to press out some of the water. Then the staff put our papers on a board to dry and pressed them with rollers to remove more water. While we were waiting for our papers to dry, we visited the two floors of the museum that exhibit washi products and artwork made by artisans from the Folk Craft Movement. We particularly liked paintings by Munakata Shiko, which reminded us of works by Marc Chagall. Of course there was also a gift shop. After our papers had dried, Tanny took us to the paper factory, where we could watch Abe's grandson making paper. We could see the bark and washed fibers, as well as the press and drying boards. We also saw a small local shrine and got a close-up look at a rice paddy. Then it was time for a 40-minute drive to Matsue Castle (https://www.matsue-castle.jp/). This castle was built in 1611 and is one of only 12 original castles remaining in Japan and one of the few that retains its main keep in its original wooden form, not a modern concrete reconstruction. Except for the six-storey keep and the stone wall, most of the other original buildings have been destroyed through time. The exhibits inside the keep are sparse and in Japanese, but we had great views of the city and Lake Shinji-ko from the top floor. To enter the keep, we had to remove our shoes and place them in plastic bags. Just before the entrance to the castle, we passed the Matsue-jinja, which enshrines daimyo and other eminent figures from the former Matsue feudal domain, including the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the third and last shogunate. There are a number of smaller shrines nearby that have been moved there from other sites. Outside the castle is a bronze statue of Horio Yoshiharu, the samurai warlord who built the castle, with an outstretched sword. Tanny gave his flag to John to hold so he could take photo of John striking the same pose as Yoshiharu. On the way back to the pier, we had nice views of Lake Shinji-ko and Mount Daisen, a dormant volcano that is the tallest (1729 m) mountain in the Chugoku Region. We also made another trip over the Eshima Ohashi Bridge, popularly known as the Roller Coaster Bridge. The bridge has a reputation for being dangerous because of photos circulating on the internet that make it look incredibly steep and wavy. However, that is just an optical illusion produced by photographing the bridge at a particular spot from a distance with a telephoto lens. (https://japannews.yomiuri.co.jp/features/japan-focus/20210508-62433/.) As we returned to the dock, there was another band warming up to see the ship off. We pulled away after dark and people on the dock with glow sticks were waving at us. We had an interesting event tonight in the dining room. The sommelier, Max, was trying to open a bottle of Champagne when it erupted. The cork and a large quantity of Champagne hit the ceiling. It drenched the woman next to Max; her hair and clothes got soaked. I guess it was some consolation to her that the Restaurant Manager gifted the table with a bottle of a premium wine. TUESDAY, MAY 21, 2024—MAIZURU, JAPAN (Arrive 8 a.m.; Depart 6 p.m.) Today was our turnaround day in Maizuru, the port for Kyoto, on Honshu Island. It was literally a turnaround day because this evening the ship would set sail for Sakaiminato, where we were in port yesterday. Despite repeated inquiries, we had not been able to pry much information from Guest Services about the procedures for in-transit passengers. We were told we would have to fill out new customs and immigration forms, then told we didn't. We were told we would get a final statement for the first cruise, then told we would get it at the end of the second cruise. We were not told that we needed to have our cruise card reactivated and that we needed to attend the Lifeboat Drill for a second time. We did not receive a Daily Program for in-transit passengers until after breakfast. There are only six of us doing the back-to-back, and this seemed unnecessarily disorganized. Since we had the day at leisure, we started with Eggs Benedict as our first breakfast in the dining room. Then we went to the Observatory Lounge to read and give our excellent Cabin Steward, Fuad, a chance to make up our cabin. The cabins that were receiving new guests were being thoroughly cleaned and disinfected; they even changed the air filters. There are only 167 guests on the next cruise and everyone speaks English, so all the announcements will be made in English only. Although John had thoroughly researched Maizuru (https://maizuru--kanko-net.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US), he had not been able to put together much of a sightseeing plan. He had identified the Goro Sky Tower, the Enryu-ji Temple, and the remains of the Tanabe-jō Castle as the major points of interest. We quickly eliminated the Goro Sky Tower because of the hassle to get there; there was no safe walking route. We almost decided to remain on the ship, but we were glad that we hadn't after we went to the tourist information table in the cruise terminal. We obtained an excellent map of the city in English with two suggested walking tours (https://maizuru-kanko.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/westmap.pdf). John already knew that we would pass several temples and shrines on the way to the Enryu-ji Temple. However, the tourist map showed that there was an entire temple district, with accompanying cemeteries. Including Enryu-ji, there were eight interesting Buddhist temples and two Shinto shrines in this area. We visited all of them. Next we went to the Maizuru Park (https://www.japan-experience.com/all-about-japan/kyoto/attractions-excursions/tanabe-castle) to view the ruins of Tanabe Castle (Tanabe-jō). This 16th-century castle was demolished in 1871 and all that remains today is the stone foundation of the two-story tower and some fragments of stone walls. In 1940, a faux tower was reconstructed for use as a museum, and in 1992 a replica of the Main Gate was restored. The park has several attractive garden areas to stroll. On the way back to the ship, we visited another temple and another shrine. Altogether, we spent nearly two hours exploring Maizuru. Later in the afternoon, we attended the Welcome Speech by Captain Ducournau. That was followed by the Life Onboard talk by the Cruise Director, Tino; the Smithsonian staff and special lecturers were also introduced. Finally came the mandatory Lifeboat Drill. A band had come to the pier to entertain us, but everyone was at the program and Lifeboat Drill while they were playing. That was followed by dinner. Executive Chef Belliot included Japanese as well as French dishes on the menu. Soon the ship was on its way north along the west coast of Japan on a seven-night “Cultural and Natural Treasures of Japan by Sea-with Smithsonian Journeys” cruise.

This was the Kitamae route ( Otaru to Osaka) expedition cruise. I want to re-emphasize that this was a cruise to interesting and diverse spots along the Japan coast. We used Zodiacs and the tenders to go ashore most stops. This was not Disneyland on the water type experience. The La Soleal is small and luxury oriented, but it is not about having a casino or a big band playing after dinner etc... There were approximately 200 passengers, we got to know many of them. Yes, it was an older crowd, but we still had a lot of fun. The food was pretty good, not 5 star every meal, but we were well fed and happy. Most people had a night cap after dinner and went to bed as each morning brought a new adventure! The crew went the extra mile for just about anything we asked for. A few reviews of this trip had some complaints. Mostly around the food; this was not the Queen Mary 2 on an ocean crossing, people were on this cruise for the expedition aspects and they really delivered. The food was mostly good and on the Gala nights it was great! I felt well fed. We had no problem with speaking English onboard. We were in the lounge the second night and the Captain sat down and talked with us for 15 minutes. That's not going to happen on a big boat. This was our first cruise ever as we did not want to be on a boat with 5,000 other people. We have already booked the La Soleal New Zealand Mosaic cruise departing on December 31st from Dunedin. I highly recommend Ponant; best fit is for older couples wanting an adventurous trip with quiet luxury.