We recently returned from Swan Hellenic's "Antarctic Peninsula In Depth" cruise in December 2024. The short version is that everything about this cruise was excellent and I would highly recommend Swan Hellenic cruises in general, as well as this cruise specifically. Additionally, I think that this cruise was exceptional value for money.
We did quite a bit of research before booking this cruise and what we discovered was that Swan Hellenic was offering far more than similar cruises for around $2,000 less per person. Specifically, our cruise included 7 days in Antarctica (actually we got 7.5 because there is an extra day in the itinerary labeled as a sea day, but is basically a flex day depending on weather in the Drake Passage). Our Swan Hellenic cruise fare also included a charter flight (with transfers) between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia (both directions) which made for an extremely convenient trip as flying to Buenos Aires can be accomplished by most national carriers whereas flights to Ushuaia are limited to a few South American carriers. Not needing to arrange travel to Ushuaia on our own was a huge plus.
We booked directly through Swan Hellenic and the experience was simple and the service and communication were excellent. They arranged additional days for us in Buenos Aires as well as private airport transfers. During the lead up to the trip, we received several detailed emails explaining all that we needed to know. There was also some paperwork to fill out that needed to be returned by certain dates, so it is important to carefully read all of the provided information.
The pre and post cruise hotel was the Sofitel Recoletta. We arrived early, but upon checking in (both times) we were presented with an envelope from Swan Hellenic with information about the cruise, our room and helpful information about Buenos Aires such as what to do and where to eat. The hotel was nice (though the rooms showed some wear), very comfortable and the service was excellent. Breakfast and a fully stocked mini-bar were included, as well as a $30 meal credit. The Recoletta neighborhood is very upscale and enjoyable to explore. I'd highly recommend a visit to the cemetary (seriously!). Also, while most transactions can be conducted via credit card in Buenos Aires, pesos are needed for tips (they can't be added to the credit card slip). Argentinian pesos can be obtained at the Bank Nacional at the Ministro Pistarini Airport or via the black market currency exchanges. Do a bit of research on the currency situation in Argentina before you go so you know what to expect.
The day before the cruise, Swan Hellenic hosted a cocktail reception that allowed guests to meet each other and the crew as well as learn a bit about the cruise and the plan for the next day. The clientele were international and all continents were well represented. Ages ranged from families with elementary school aged children to folks who were in their 80's. The crew were also international, but all communications were in English.
Embarkation day started early. Luggage had to be placed outside the rooms for porters the night before and after a quick breakfast we were loaded on coaches for transport to the airport. Local Swan Hellenic representatives guided us through the airport to security--after which we had to find our charter flight on our own (which was not difficult). The local representatives were professional and very helpful--my daughter's phone fell out of her pocket on the bus, but we didn't notice until we had cleared security. We immediately exited security and the Swan Hellenic representatives were already on top of the situation. They made a couple of quick phone calls and they were able to bring the missing phone to us right as the last of our cruise group was entering the security line. Phew!
Aerolineas Argentinas flew us to Ushuaia in a modern Boeing 737-800 (we got a 737-Max on the way back). Again, Swan Hellenic local representatives met us at baggage claim and guided us to coaches for the short drive to the ship.
Our ship (SH Vega) was docked at the pier and embarkation was simple and quick. We simply boarded the ship and very briefly met with the conceirge staff to pick up our stateroom keys. I can't remember if we were met with a glass of champagne immediately as we boarded or if it was offered in the observation lounge where we had to report to our evacuation station, but either way embarkation felt very welcoming. Upon arrival to our stateroom, our house steward introduced himself and gave us a tour of the room's features.
The SH Vega is an excellent ship for Antarctic travel. It is a class 5 icebreaker, has good stabilizers and is well appointed. It does not have a helicopter or a submarine though, so if you need those kinds of extras, this might not be the cruise line for you. We had originally booked an ocean view stateroom amid ships, but we discovered that we had been upgraded to a forward balcony room, which was a nice surprise (though amidships is definitely preferrable in the Drake Passage!) Although we spent very little time on the balcony, it was nice to be able to open the doors for pictures. With the seas that we had, Ocean View rooms (which are on deck four) would have had water splashing all over the windows. That said, I believe our original decision to book an ocean view stateroom was the correct one. For us it wouldn't have been worth the money. Other than the balcony all staterooms (other than the few suites) are pretty much the same. They are well decorated and have tons of storage space. They feature a decorative electric fireplace (it doesn't heat), a large flat screen tv, an nespresso machine, and a mini bar which the cabin steward will keep stocked. In addition to the usual min-bar contents of sodas, beer and water (in a reusable container), we were also given a complementary bottle of champagne. The bathrooms include a european style shower (with a retractable closeline--be sure to use it!) and plenty of storage above the sink. Shower drainage isn't the best, so expect the floors to get a bit wet when showering.
As far as the rest of the ship, there was a free laundry facility (no need to bring soap) on deck four. There were I think three washer/dryers so you do want to be a bit strategic about when to do your laundry. The gym was small but functional. It had a few items of cardio equipment and some dumbells and kettle bells. It didn't have barbells or a Smith machine. We didn't use the sauna or the jacuzzi. We also didn't use the infinity pool, but it looked nice. The observation lounge was very comfortable with couches and chairs scattered around, a bar and a large tv that was usually showing view forward. There was an observation deck running along the starboard side of the ship to the bow, but for portside viewing you either needed a portside balcony or you would need to go up to the stargazing deck or down to the Swan's Nest at the bow of the ship. If I did pay for a balcony again, I would definitely prefer the port side of the ship for that reason.
The two other places that we spent the most time in were the expedition room and the dining room. The former included lockers to store your muck boots (which Swan Hellenic provides) and if you ask, they may be willing to hang up your life jacket for you. Lifejackets are worn at all times on expeditions and they get wet. That said, we just hung up our wet gear in our room--storing heavier items on hangers in the bath room. PSA: the public dryers in the laundry room are intended for doing laundry, so they should not be used for drying gear!
The dining room was well appointed featuring booths and tables. It operated during fixed times, but seating and dress were informal. You simply arrived when you wanted to eat and they sat you as you desired. Some passengers ended up dining with the same group for each meal, while others chose different locations or different people.
I found the food to be excellent. Breakfast and lunch were served buffet style in the main dining room. Light breakfast and light lunch was also offered during slightly different times at the club lounge. In additon, there was an outdoor grill on the pool deck that served a grill menu on good weather days. Lunch tended to be a bit heavier and usually had an ethnic theme. There was a station that often served pasta or a cut of meat. For breakfast omlettes were served at that station.
With the exception of embarkation day and the last evening (in which dinner was served buffet style), dinner was full service. The day's menu was always displayed on the information channel of the TV. In addition, room service was included in our fare and we availed ourselves of it one evening. I enjoyed the food and the service was excellent. There were usually appetizer choices, soup and salad choices, main course choices, and dessert choices. There were a couple of shrimp appetizers that were so good that we asked for a second serving. Wine and water were always available and you could also order sodas or cocktails from the bar. Wines tended to be local Argentinan and both red and white were available. We always just drank what the sommelier was offering, so I don't know if we could have asked for something different. In any case, I found their selections to be enjoyable.
Service was excellent. The staff was exceptionally attentive and they went out of their way to learn your name and preferences. The bar was well stocked, but on a small ship at sea you can't expect them to have every cocktail ingredient. Still, the bar tenders went out of their way to come up with something special if they couldn't make your drink. Drinks were strong and the alchohol was all good mid-tier stuff. I asked for a sipping whiskey or bourbon at one point and they poured me Maker's Mark which was entirely satisfactory for me.
Entertainment: the expedition is the entertainment! Seriously, we were not bored--though we did spend some quality time relaxing in our cabin watching the Antarctic Peninsual go by, reading books and watching the occasional movie from the ship's large on-line library. Antarctic days featured two expeditions (one landing, one zodiac tour). There were also lectures, wild-life watching sessions and yoga classes (among other things) as well as nightly piano concerts. A typical Antarctica day would inolve waking up and walking out on the balcony to see where we had got to and then checking the ships information channel to see the agenda for the day (and the menu). The passengers were split into four color groups. On a rotating basis, two groups would go ashore in the morning while the other two went on a morning zodiac tour and then schedule would reverse in the afternoon. Once we confirmed what we were doing when, we'd head down to breakfast, eat and then return to the stateroom to either immediately get ready for our expedition, or relax for an hour or so if we weren't first. Then we'd do the morning expedition and have lunch (or relax a bit before lunch if we had gone out first). Then afternoon expedition. In the evening, we would all convene in the observation lounge for the daily recap and then look ahead at the weather (wind and swells) which would determine where we would be going for the next day.
Expeditions: the expedition staff and ship's crew were outstanding! We received an itinerary in our stateroom upon boarding, but at the end of the trip I realized it had been mainly thrown out the window! The nature of Antarctica is that you have to roll with the variables--not just weather, wind and sea conditions, but also sea ice and wild-life restrictions. The expedition staff were all-stars in giving us the best experience possible. I won't spoil it, but every day was pretty much better than the last and the Captain took us to some amazing places. I will say that many of the landings on the Antarctic Peninsula take place on islands and it actually took three tries before a continental landing worked out (but it did and everybody got ashore). We also made it south of the Antarctic Circle, which is also not guaranteed. On the first day, we were in the first two groups and we got ashore, but the afternoon groups ended up with two zodiac tours instead because the sea ice blew in and closed out the bay. So on Antarctica trips you have to go in without expectations and "be flexible!" As I said, the Swan Hellenic expedition and ship's crew worked extremely hard to give us the trip of a lifetime. It was extremely evident that they had a mandate to do so. For example, on the 24th we left for the South Shetland Islands because the Drake Passage weather was deteriorating and the Captain wanted to avoid the worst of it. We spent Christmas morning at Whaler's Bay (which is inside an active caldera--totally cool) and were offered a second opportunity to do the Polar Plunge. Anyway, we ended up leaving early and losing maybe half a day in Antarctica, but because of that, we had time to cruise by Cape Horn before entering the Beagle Channel to return to Ushuaia. I really appreciated the autonomy that the crew had which enabled them to do that and the fact that they were so dedicated that even at the end of the cruise they were still looking for ways to make it the best cruise possible.
Our final evening onboard was spent docked at the pier at Ushuaia. We arrived early enough to go explore the town both before and after dinner (some opted to eat in the town). Debarkation was dead simple. A few days prior, we had to fill out a tiny bit of paperwork around our luggage and deliver it to the conceierge desk. On the last night abord, we parked our luggage outside our stateroom so the porters could pick it up. In the morning, we had to be out of our cabins at 8:30 am (I think) so we had a leisurely breakfast and then relaxed in the observation lounge. Others chose to go into town. In any case, at the appointed time, we simply walked off the ship, turning in our card key on the way out. The majority of the crew was lined up to say goodbye as we deboarded. From there, we boarded a coach to the Ushuaia airport, took our charter flight back to Buenos Aires, and in our case were met by our driver to take us back to the Sofitel for a few more days of vacation. Once again, we were met with a nice letter from Swan Hellenic upon checking back in.
What else? Kayaking and snowshoeing were offered on the trip and we were able to do both. Both are well worth the money, but participation is limited so you have to sign up for the lottery the night before they are offered. If you "win" you'll get a knock on your door before about 11 pm and you need to check your mailbox for a piece of paper that you have to sign and return to the concierge desk to accept your spot. Lotteries for activities like this are pretty typical for many cruise lines, but it helpful to understand them so you can set your expectations accordingly. While I'm very happy that we got to do both activities, my review of this trip or Swan Hellenic wouldn't have changed if we hadn't have been able to do either. Also, snowshoeing was a new offering for Swan Hellenic and I hope they continue it (and bring enough snowshoes for everyone), but definitely read the fine print to see if they will continue to offer it. It also may be something that can only be offered in the earlier season due to snow conditions.
For Antarctic expeditions, Swan Hellenic provides a parka (with a detachable puffy liner), and a backpack (which is essentially a wet bag with straps) with an aluminum water bottle. This equipment is excellent and the parka will keep you warm. The provided muck boots are also extremely warm, but you won't get to keep them. Get your parka size right on the pre cruise paperwork, because even though there is some opportunity for a parka swapping on day one, they may not have the size you need.
Besides the included outdoor gear (which is pretty standard on most Antarctic cruises), we were accompanied by a professional photographer on our expeditions. His work (including videos and drone footage) was given to us at the end of the cruise. In addition he produced an 8 minute video of our voyage and a downloadable photographic book. This was presented to us as a gift at the end of the cruise, which I thought was a very nice touch.
The Drake Passage and sea-sickness: We got a fairly moderate passage in both directions and many on the ship got sick. A former Captain, USN (ret) told me that he though the seas we had on the first night were 30 feet. Our seas on the return were about 20 feet. On the way over we were cross-swell so the ship was really rolling (even with stabilizers). Being forward, we felt a lot of pitch. We used prescription Scopolamine patches and sea bands and had no issues with sea sickness. We also had prescription anti-nausea medication (Zofran). I'd highly recommend anyone considering an Antarctic cruise visit their doctor and get the prescription medication. The crossing usually takes two days and many passengers were miserable in their cabins during that time. Whatever medication you use, be aware that most medications (including Dramamine) need to be taken several hours before they may be needed. We put on our patches as soon as we boarded the ship. Even though we only really needed the Scopolamine patches for the Drake Passage, I'd recommend bring enough medication to cover the entire trip. We definitely had a few transits along the peninsula where we experienced more than a little movement.
The Polar Plunge: do it! They set up a scaffold with a ladder where you normally board the zodiacs. It is only about a three foot drop and it is an experience! They attach a belt with a rope to you for safety (and make you sign a waiver), but as long as you are healthy it is worth doing. You'll never be that cold again--unless you have a second opportunity to plunge from shore like we did.
Clothing and temperature. Our coldest day was -4C / 24F and most days were warmer. I wore long underwear tops and bottoms, Hot Chilly midlayer bottoms (their warmest) and a Melanzana fleece mid layer under my Swan Hellenic parka. I wore REI Rainier rainpants as my outer layer for bottoms. With a hat and gloves, I was plenty warm. Layers are best. If you have ski goggles bring them--they are nice to have on bad weather days. Don't forget your sunglasses for good weather days!
Ok, I think that is it. Like I said, Swan Hellenic provides an outstanding experience at a very reasonable price. Everything but kayaking and snowshoeing were included and no tips were expected. They did do an auction of a few items on the last day for the crew recreational fund which I thought was very classy. I highly and unhesitatingly recommend Swan Hellenic and I would sail with them any time.