After cruising on a private barge in Dijon, France, and on an Ama Waterways competitor's ship on the Danube in 2019, our traveling friends began to focus on upgrading to Ama for our next trip. We decided on an AmaMora Winter Market Cruise from Amsterdam to Basel.
Water levels on the Rhine vary from year to year, and in 2023, there was high water cascading into the river from Switzerland. Aside from a stronger current, this condition can raise levels on the last leg of the voyage to the point where larger vessels, like the AmaMora, can't get under the bridges on the Swiss leg of the journey.
This flooding stopped us short of making Basel, and required the Cruise Manager, Crew, and port authorities to pivot on the 2nd half of the trip. Busses would be required to meet us at previously unplanned ports-of-call, where we would have otherwise been very close to excursion destinations. This (necessary) shuffling added bus rides of up to one hour (each direction) to our Day 4, 5, 6, destinations, and final departure connections on the last day. This was all handled by Ama Waterways in the very best ways possible, with good communication, and most options for touring remaining open, if not slightly modified in duration, due to the various ground transportation situations.
The Crew of the AmaMora is world-class, with many being aboard all season (March - January) from destinations like Romania. We had a fantastic time conversing with our servers and other F&B staff, along with the top-notch housekeeping team, who kept our stateroom impossibly tidy.
Food was well-varied, with intercontinental and local dishes represented. In contrast to our cruise on a competitor's ship on the Danube, we didn't feel overwhelmed by endless "white foods" - sausages, potatoes, and other German / Austrian / Hungarian fare. AmaMora's meals were multi-course, with appetizer, soup, salad, entree, digestif, and dessert. Wines were well-selected, usually reflecting the country we were in at the moment. Spirits were of good quality, though US bourbons and whiskeys could be better curated. Bartenders were flexible, friendly, and enthusiastic.
In addition to the trouble around high water levels, there was an incident upstream, about two days ahead of the AmaMora, where a barge grounded near Worms, Germany. This stacked up traffic on the river, and conspired to keep us from making our scheduled ports. As mentioned above, Ama pivoted in heroic fashion where they could, and virtually no part of the cruise was compromised completely. Communication was very good, to the degree that it might have bordered on irritating, were it not for passenger's eagerness to not miss out on the promised itinerary.
The best stops for Christmas markets were Cologne, and Strasbourg. The market in Rüdesheim was the most charming and authentic feeling.
A minor complaint, and real, ongoing consideration for all in the year 2023 is our wellness while traveling.
In our case, many passengers fell ill to an irritating group of cold symptoms from the first days of the cruise. Coughing, sneezing, and other minor, but lingering symptoms. At no point were we asked to test, or confine ourselves, by Ama Waterways. Virtually everyone ended up sick, and no masks, medicines, or test kits were available on the boat. No one, to my knowledge, became seriously ill.
All of that said, both my wife and I tested Covid positive upon our return to the states, when our symptoms persisted for several days after our return. Our other friends assume they too may have had the virus, though they may not have tested. We thought back to the required morning and evening briefings in the forward lounge area, where 100 or more passengers were virtually forced together in very close proximity, for such 30 minute and much longer updates.
One suggestion for Ama Waterways is that they might consider stocking the front desk or gift shop with a few travel essentials, including: toothbrushes; toothpaste; feminine hygiene supplies; ear swabs and cotton balls; basic medicines like aspirin / ibuprofin and cold relief items (if allowed by law, of course). We inexplicably ran out of toothpaste during the cruise and were surprised to not be able to source such a basic on the ship!
All in all, this was an excellent adventure. I can't overstate the quality of the crew and Ama Waterways planning team. We won't likely cruise again during winter months, but if that's your aim, you won't regret choosing this option from Ama.